Kamis, 04 September 2008

Catatan Perjalanan Kecil

USAHA PEMELIHARAAN BEBEK

Dengan Hanya Memanfaatkan Lahan Kosong Dibelakang Rumahnya Bapak Abdullah Yang Tinggal di banyuwangi jawa timur Bisa Memperoleh penghasilan Rp. 200 000 lebih/hari. Penghasilan Sebesar itu sangat lumayan untuk hidup didesa dengan tiga orang anak, apalagi anak kedua saat ini sudah menyelesaikan kuliahnya dari hasil jerih payah bapak abdullah dari beternak bebek.Bebek yang di pelihara bapak abdullah dari jenis bebek bali, yang terkenal penurut dan gampang perawatannya, dia memelihara 500 ekor bebek, dari lima ratus ekor itu dia mengeluarkan uang untuk biaya produksi

( pakan dan peralatannya) sekitar Rp 125.000/Hari, Padahal Harga Jual Telur Untuk Saat ini (Harga di banyuwangi) adalah Rp. 900, sedangkan Bebek Yang dia pelihara dari 500 ekor yang bertelur ada 400 ekor jadi bisa kita bayangkan berapa penghasilan bapak abdullah perharinya,Yaitu: 400 Butir Telur x Rp. 900 = Rp 360.000

Kalo Biaya Produksi Perhari Untuk 500 Bebek itu Rp. 125.000 Berarti Penghasilan Bapak Abdullah Dalam satu Hari Adalah:

Rp. 235.000/Hari atau

Rp. 7.050.000/Bulan atau

Rp. 84.600.000/Tahun

Itu Baru 500 Ekor Bebek Gimana Kalo 50.000 Ekor Bebek? Wah Bisa Kita Bayangkan Pasti ngiler Kita Lihat Uangnya he he he he he

Metode Yang Digunakan Bapak abdullah sederhana, dia hanya memanfaatkan lahan kosong dibelakang rumahnya yang kira kira seluas 10 x 10 m2, dia bagi dua lahan tersebut 5 x 10 m untuk kandang utama Dan sisanya untuk tempat bermain ( ngumbar istilah Banyuwangi ) pada siang hari,bebek yang dia pelihara Dia beri makan tiga kali sehari, pagi siang dan sore, jadi beliau bisa santai setelah memberi makan.

Kini Bapak Abdullah Berencana Menyewa Sawah Untuk Memelihara bebek, dari pada kita tanami padi lebih baik kita tamami bebek Begitu katanya, beliau berani menjamin bahwa usaha peternakan bebek ini menguntungkan.dari segi ekonomi.

Duck housing design

Elaborate sheds are not necessary, but you should observe the general principles of poultry house design. Breeders may be housed either intensively or semi-intensively:
intensive housing — the birds are housed indoors for the duration of the season;
semi-intensive housing — the birds have access to outside runs during the day, but are locked indoors at night and during adverse weather conditions.
For each type of housing:
The housing must be clean, dry, adequately ventilated and able to keep out beating rain.
Allow each breeder an area of at least 0.2 m2 of floor space inside the shed (i.e. 5 birds/m2).
Cover the shed floor with litter for the comfort of the birds, to absorb moisture and to prevent egg breakage — wood shavings are probably the most suitable, but any soft absorbent material to a depth of about 7–8 cm is satisfactory.
Siting
The area selected for sheds should be gently sloping. If the site is too hilly, sheds will be difficult to build; if the site is too flat, drainage will be impeded. For siting and layout, refer to the publication NSW Meat Chicken Farming Guidelines (2004), and contact your local council for development advice.
The shed should face north to north-east and should be at least 2 m high at the back, to give enough head room. Since ducks are very susceptible to excessive sun, provide adequate shade.
Layout
For a systematic farm layout, first draw up a ground plan and spend some time thinking about the plan and shed design. This will enable you to make modifications. When planning the farm, allow for housing growers and adults separately, and make sure there is no drainage from the adult housing area to growers. Whatever housing is chosen, a cheap and effective type of shed is one with a skillion roof.
The ideal method of housing breeding stock is in a building which has both litter and slatted or wire floor areas. This greatly reduces the amount of wet litter and improves overall production. Feeders and waterers are placed on the slats. The litter area is used by the ducks for mating and for laying eggs. A combination of litter and slats prevents possible leg damage to heavy breeding ducks, which may occur if they are housed on slats only.
Nests
Encourage ducks to use nests because cleaner eggs result and fewer breakages occur. Furthermore, eggs laid in nests are not exposed to sun or damp. This may be difficult with breeds other than Muscovies.
Nests should be clean, dry, comfortable and only large enough to be used by one duck at a time. Build them from timber and place them in rows along the walls. A suitable size is 30 cm by 30 cm by about 40 cm deep. Nesting material should be placed in the nest to a depth of about 7 cm. Use shavings, sawdust, sand or shell grit. Broody ducks will further line their nests with their own body feathers.
If you wish to follow a system of progeny testing, use trap nests to facilitate identification of eggs laid by individual ducks. Identify and discard ducks that continually lay almond-shaped eggs or other misshapen eggs. Individual duck production can also be recorded. In intensive buildings, encourage Pekin ducks to lay in nests by providing open-framed nest boxes on the side of the walls. The nest boxes must be at floor level, as ducks will not use elevated nests.
Feeders
No special feeding equipment for ducks is manufactured in this country, so equipment made for other poultry has to be used. This gives satisfactory results. As a general rule, ducks need twice as much feeding space as hens. Flock feeders are the most satisfactory types of feeders for ducks. Provide each duck with a feeding space of at least 12 cm (the equivalent of four 2 m flock feeders per 100 adults).
Waterers
Swimming facilities are not essential. However, pools can be made available where outside runs are provided. Concrete ponds 1 m wide by 0.25 m deep are satisfactory. To keep litter in the shed dry, place the ponds away from the house. Alternatively, saucer-shaped pools 0.25 m deep and 2 m wide may be used. In both cases, good drainage is essential. To limit wastage of eggs, it is advisable to prevent outside swimming until about 10.00 am, when most eggs will have been laid (most ducks lay their eggs in the evening and early morning).
Although swimming water is not necessary, ducks do need plenty of clean drinking water. Birds should be able to immerse their heads completely and hence clean and prevent blockage of their nasal passages caused by food and dirt. Keep drinking containers shaded at all times. To prevent damp litter, place drinking vessels outside the shed or on a wire grid. Provide about 3 cm of drinking space for each adult bird.

DUCK MARKETING


For marketing, ducklings should have a well-rounded breast filled with meat and showing very little breastbone. Studies on carcase composition have shown that the relatively high fat content of ducks is almost entirely due to their large body size at marketing. The percentage of fat increases with body size.
Market English ducks (Pekins and Aylesburys) as ‘green’ ducks when they are 7–8 weeks of age and their liveweight is 2.5–2.8 kg. Some Pekin strains less than 7 weeks of age will be heavy enough for some markets. Ducklings 10 weeks old are more difficult to pluck because this is when they start to get their adult feathers, and they require extra handling. If ducklings have reached this stage, growers may be forced to take a lower price.
Market Muscovies slightly later — ducks at 11 weeks with a liveweight of about 2.25 kg, and drakes at 14 weeks with a liveweight of about 3.5 kg.
Some growers prefer to market both sexes 2 weeks later (at 13 weeks for ducks and 16 weeks for drakes), and others market both sexes at 14 weeks of age. The correct time to market Muscovies is before they lose their downy feathers and before the wing tips cross over on the back.
Before growing ducks, arrange a market outlet, preferably at a prearranged price per kilogram liveweight. Negotiate directly with a processor. The only really reliable market is before Christmas when larger ducks and drakes, such as Muscovies, are in constant demand. Once a reputation for supplying prime quality birds is obtained, direct on-the-farm sales can become an important outlet. This method of selling usually means a higher net income per bird.
SLAUGHTERING
Remove feed from ducks at least 2 hours before slaughter so that the intestinal tract clears. The ducks must still have access to cool, clean drinking water, which will reduce carcase dehydration and facilitate plucking. Ducklings should then be transported to the slaughterhouse in crates.
Take care to prevent bruising and damage to the carcase. A good way of carrying ducks to avoid carcase damage is for the operator to grasp, in one hand, the wing tip and leg from the same side of the bird.
Place the duckling’s feet in ‘W’ shackles hung at a convenient height, or place the bird headfirst into a killing funnel. Sever the jugular vein by drawing a long, thin, sharp knife across the throat high on the neck just under the lower bill. Birds killed this way bleed swiftly and completely.
DRESSING
Scalding - Once they have stopped bleeding, place ducks to be wet plucked in a scalding tank at a water temperature of 60°C for a few minutes — long enough to loosen the feathers without causing flesh discolouration. Adding an approved detergent to the water sometimes makes it easier to remove the feathers.
Wet plucking - Several mechanical pluckers are available; all have revolving rubber ‘fingers’ that remove most of the feathers. The remaining pin feathers must be removed by hand, by grasping them between the thumb and a dull-edged knife.
Dry plucking - This method of plucking eliminates scalding. Poulterers prefer it because it produces an exceptionally attractive carcase. It is, however, much slower than wet plucking and there is more chance of tearing the skin.
Waxing - Waxing carcases to remove the remaining feathers is recommended where many ducks are to be processed, because remaining feathers are removed quickly and a better carcase appearance results. Waxing carcases to remove remaining feathers is common overseas, and more Australian processors are now using this method. The carcase is covered with molten wax and placed in cold water to harden the wax; when the wax is peeled off the carcase, any feathers come with it. The wax can be used again by remelting it and pouring it through a screen to separate the wax from the feathers. Commercial blended wax can be obtained for this purpose.
Evisceration - Eviscerate birds on a stainless steel table. Slit the skin on top of the neck to the shoulder blades and remove the windpipe and oesophagus. The neck can be nicked with secateurs and turned back in through the top of the body, or cut through and removed.
Remove the visceral organs from the rear end by slitting from the vent to the end of the breastbone. Then insert one hand high up into the body cavity. With practice, all organs can be removed in one operation. Cut through the hock joint to remove the legs. Eviscerated birds should now be thoroughly washed. Clean and wash giblets, enclose them in sealed packets made of an approved material, and either stuff them into the body cavity through the rear end of the carcase, or pack and sell them separately. The carcase must be labelled either ‘with giblets’ or ‘without giblets’. A dressing-out loss of about 23% is normal with most breeds.
Trussing - The most attractive carcase presentation is to pack birds in a patented clear plastic bag which shrinks to the contours of the bird’s body. Birds handled in this way require no special trussing. They are placed in the correct-sized bag, and the mouth of the bag is then held under the nozzle of a machine which removes air by vacuum. The end of the bag is twisted to prevent entry of outside air and is sealed with a metal clip. To shrink the bag into the body contours, the carcase is then placed into a shrink tank filled with water at 93°C for a couple of seconds.
Ducks do not have to be pre-chilled to keep their flesh white, unlike chickens and turkeys. But if you do not pre-chill carcases, take care when packing them to prevent their becoming misshapen. Freeze ducks at –15°C with an air speed of about 180 m/min. Place birds to be sold as fresh poultry in ordinary plastic bags, first twisting the wings inwards. Freshly killed, well-processed ducks stored at 1°C–2°C can be kept safely for up to 10 days.
STORING
Freshly killed birds should be drawn as soon as possible, then lightly wrapped and stored in the refrigerator — fresh birds can be refrigerated safely for up to 7 days. A cooked bird refrigerates safely for 4–5 days.
Birds to be frozen should be plucked, drawn and thoroughly cleaned before freezing. Frozen birds should be thawed completely before cooking. If roasting a frozen bird before thawing is complete, use a meat thermometer, which should register at least 88°C before the bird can be considered fully cooked. Do not stuff the bird before freezing. It is wise to remove the stuffing from a roasted bird; wrap it separately for refrigerated storage.
BREEDING OPERATION
For efficient and productive duck breeding operation, consider the following tips recommended by experts from the Philippine Council for Agriculture and Resources Research in Los BaƱos, Laguna.
Procedure:
Maintain the proper ratio of male to female ducks in a breeding shed or kamalig. Put in one drake for every five to 10 female ducks. Keep extra drakes in a separate shed in case some male breeders die of diseases or become unproductive.
The drakes can be distinguished from the females by their voice and appearance. Females quack while drakes provide a hissing sound. Drakes have curly tail features.
If possible, the drakes should be one month older than the female ducks. This is to ensure that the males are ready for mating during the breeding season.
Choose drakes and females alike with well-developed bodies and good conformation. They should be healthy, have a good set of feathers and with keen, alert eyes. Do not select those that are obviously sickly and thin.
For further information on duck raising, click links below:
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