A Raw Food Detour

Well, I will soon take a little break from my Raw Food diet because I will be trying a delicacy I’ve always wanted to try.

Have you heard of "balut" eggs?

Balut is a very popular food item in the Philippines in which a fertilized duck egg is cooked and eaten when the duck embryo is half formed.

Doesn’t that sound yummy?

In the Philippines, a lot of care is taken to cook the fertilized duck eggs after the duckling has formed for exactly 18 days. Any less than eighteen days, the duck fetus is too soupy. Any more, then it's too crunchy.

The Filipinos enjoy balut because it’s the perfect all-in-one meal. The balut egg contains a good bit of salty liquid, so there’s your soup. (mmmm -- amniotic fluid soup)

The half-formed fetus provides the entrée and the eggy bit provides your side dish - - all in one go.

Anyway, I will be visiting my staff members across the state of Illinois in a couple of weeks. The wife of one of one of my staff is from the Philippines and she has already procured a balut egg for me to try.

I really love to try new and unusual food items. A balut egg will certainly qualify.

So, I will make a detour from my vegan, raw food diet in order to try this delicacy. Of course, I will post some photos of my balut-eating experience for your entertainment and pleasure.

You have to admit that eating a boiled duck fetus is just about as far away from vegetarianism as you can get:

A Management Program for Raising Breeder Duck

All domestic poultry, including waterfowl, should be maintained on a quality commercial type feed. Feed quality, the amount of feed consumed, and the rate of body weight gain are extremely important in determining the rate and number of eggs produced. In the past, breeder ducklings raised on a restricted diet with specific target weights with age had superior egg production characteristics over breeder ducklings given feed continuously. A restricted or limited diet controls the nutrient intake to prevent the gain of excess body fat. Excessive body fat in hens interferes with the function of the reproductive tract. The reproductive tract can actually be blocked or pinched off as abdominal fat increases. Recent work with breeder Pekin ducklings has shown that overweight hens on the average produce approximately 20% fewer eggs than feed restricted hens during a typical laying cycle.

Recommended body growth rates and feeding schedules for young breeder ducklings are shown in Table 1. Feed in Table 1 is calculated as pounds of feed per 100 ducks. A developer diet (Table 2) should be fed until the ducks begin to lay eggs. After egg production commences, a breeder diet should be utilized.

The amount of feed in Table 1 may have to be adjusted according to the environmental temperature. During a severe cold spell, an additional 2-5 pounds of feed per 100 ducks may be required to maintain adequate growth or egg production. The drakes may have to be temporarily separated to achieve optimum body weight gain for both sexes. Drakes tend to be very aggressive in feeding behavior which can result in uneven feed consumption and weight distribution among hens and drakes. Be sure to have enough feeding space to reduce competition at feeders.

Since drakes are aggressive, they can often injure or even kill hens. Thus, a large number of drakes is not necessary to maintain a quality breeding flock. A ratio of four to one or five to one hens to drakes should be adequate to maintain fertility.

The reproductive performance of ducks is regulated by the length of daylight. Lighting programs generally use a combination of natural daylight and artificial lights to stimulate and maintain egg production and fertility in breeder flocks. Lighting schedules for replacement and recycled duckling breeder flocks are discussed in the following sections.

Replacement Flock

Hatching of breeder replacement flocks should be in June or July to rely on naturally decreasing daylengths in the following weeks. These ducklings should be raised separately from older breeder flocks to ensure proper nutrition, disease control, and lighting management. A good rule of thumb to follow is never grow-out young breeder birds on naturally increasing daylengths (Dec. 21 to June 21) or constant long daylengths using artificial lights (ie. 14 or 16 hours of light per day). When ducklings are hatched in June or July, use natural daylight until the ducklings are 22 weeks of age and then turn on the time clocks for the artificial lights to extend the light per day to 14 hours (photostimulation). At 24 weeks of age increase the daylength to 16 hours of light per day. If you are located in a section of the country which has a natural daylength longer than 16 hours, set the time clock to match the longest natural daylength. After sunset, one footcandle of artificial light intensity at the height of a duck's head is adequate to stimulate and maintain egg production. One footcandle is actually very dim light. If you held this document at arm's length under one footcandle of light, you would barely be able to read it.

The purchase of a good commercial duckling feed for the breeder flock is highly recommended. A developer diet (Table 2) is required until 22 weeks of age and then switch to a layer feed. The main ingredients of the developer diet (15.5% crude protein, 1330 Kcal/lb metabolizable energy (ME), and 1% calcium) are adjusted to promote growth of the skeletal and muscle systems. The concentrations of ingredients in the developer diet aid to prevent excess feed consumption and unnecessary body fat gain. As shown in Table 2, crude protein and calcium are increased in the breeder or layer diet to supply the additional needs for egg production. Give newly hatched ducklings continuous feed for one week.

Recycling a Flock

If the intent is to recycle, the following steps are recommended. In November or December, turn off the time clocks for the artificial lights to completely switch to natural daylengths. In December the natural daylength is at its shortest length (remember that reproduction is stimulated by long daylengths).

Completely remove all feed (sweep the troughs clean) from the breeder flock, but give ducks full access to water. The goal is to induce a molt and reduce body weights by 30%. About 50% or slightly more of the flock will drop most of their primary feathers. Take an average body weight after one week and again at nine days after feed removal. Either extrapolate with a weight loss curve over time or continue taking an average body weight every two or three days until a 30% decrease in body weight occurs. Some mortality may occur during the recycling period due to diseased birds. After the 30% body weight loss occurs, give the flock 27 pounds of molt diet feed (Table 2) every other day and follow the feeding schedule in Table 3. The crude protein and ME of the molt diet will maintain the recycled ducks' musculature and body size. The level of calcium (2.5%) in the molt diet is adjusted to replenish body reserves. When egg production commences, switch to the breeder diet.

The daily lighting program is very important during recycling of the breeder flock. After the flock has molted and given feed again, note the daylength of the natural day. Increase that length of daylight by 30 minutes per week using time clocks and artificial lights. This is called a step-up lighting schedule. Alternate the increase in daylength each week from the morning to the afternoon. In other words, increase the daylength by 30 minutes in the morning one week and again increase the daylength by 30 minutes in the evening during the next week. Do not exceed 16 hours of light per day unless you need to match a longer daylength in your area. Again, one footcandle of light intensity should be adequate. Follow this lighting schedule until the first egg appears. Switch to the breeder diet and increase the daylength to either 16 hours of light per day or to the longest natural daylength in your particular area. Follow the feeding schedule shown in Table 3 for a recycled flock.

Keep in mind that the performance of your breeder duck flock depends upon the management programs you practice. These guidelines should enable the typical breeder flock to maintain quality egg production from one to two years.

Large Homemade Incubators

DUCK INCUBATOR

This is a kitchen refrigerator with the doors attached on the right and open in both photographs. The upper freezer compartment is shown in the first photograph. The 100 watt light bulbs in the photograph produce the heat and the bathroom exhaust fan blows the heated air down through the eggs. The air has previously traveled through the eggs and then is sucked by the fan up a false back thus returning the air to the freezer section of the refrigerator to be reheated and sent on its way again. Fresh air joins the air being heated as the fresh air is allowed to enter by keeping the freezer compartment door slightly (one quarter inch) ajar. To the left of the light bulbs is a wafer thermostat mounted in a handy box. A small part of the lower section is shown in the top photograph to help in orienting the lower photograph with the first photograph.

Duck, Chicken, And Quail Incubator Made From Old Kitchen Refrigerator Converted Freezer Area Is Pictured

Duck, Chicken, And Quail Incubator Made From Old Kitchen Refrigerator Converted Refrigerator Area Is Pictured

The three egg trays are connected by a strip of wood on each of the back corners. The arrangement was calibrated by leveling all three trays before attaching the strips of wood to the corners. For several years the incubator was operated as a "hand turner." By tilting one tray, all of the trays were tilted and the eggs were thus turned. Blocks were used to control the amount of the tilt. Later the automatic turner was added to the system. The thermostat system is a GQF electronic (#3258) thermostat backed by the wafer thermostat shown in the first photograph. The electronic thermostat is placed directly in the air flow coming from the fan in the upper compartment. The automatic turner is also a GQF. Probe thermometers are attached to the outside of the incubator (See G3) with the probes inserted through a hole and placed on the upper and lower trays. A wire basket sits under the three trays to catch babies that hatch in the trays and fall to the bottom. Most eggs are placed in the basket before they hatch. The wiring discussion below will describe the wiring procedure for this incubator. Since this is the only one of the incubators that has a turner, note the turner like the fan must be wired to be constantly available for use.

RHEA/EMU INCUBATOR

Rhea And Emu Incubator Made From Old Restaurant Pie Safe

This is a restaurant pie safe. The air is heated by GQF heat cables which now replace the old refrigeration coils in the top of the unit. Air is sucked to the top of the incubator in the middle of the unit by a fan mounted in a chase as long as the incubator. The air is blown out the ends of the chase. Thus the air circulates in two circles. There is one circle on each end and in each case the circle is from the middle to the end, down to the bottom of the incubator, and back to the middle. The thermostat system is a GQF electronic (#3258) thermostat backed by a wafer thermostat. Both are placed at one end of the chase to be directly in the air flow pattern. The fan is the original refrigeration fan. This incubator is wired according to the wiring instructions below except that two 100 watt GQF heat cables have been substituted for light bulbs.

Rhea And Emu Incubator Made From Old Restaurant Pie Safe Converted To A Duck Incubator

As interest in raising rheas and emus waned the pie safe was converted to a duck incubator. The conversion required only the removal of the metal shelves followed by insertion of the shelf unit pictured below. It was not convenient to install an automatic turner so the trays were attached allowing the eggs to be turned by lifting or lowering any of the shelves. When one shelf moves they all move.

Insert For Conversion To A Duck Incubator

GOOSE INCUBATOR

G1 - Goose Incubator On Left, Rhea/Emu Or Goose Hatcher On Right Made From Old School Two Door Refrigerator

This is a school-type refrigerator. The two doors are open and not shown in the G1 but can be seen in G2. The unit on the left is smaller than the unit on the right as the right side is slightly taller. Goose eggs can be kept at 99.7 on the left while rhea and emu eggs can be kept on the right at about a degree lower or the right can be used as a hatcher for goose eggs. The middle between the two units is an enclosed chase with four openings at the top and four openings at the bottom that extend from the left side through to the right side. Two 100 watt bulbs are mounted at the bottom in the two center openings in the chase and two 40 watt bulbs are mounted in the two center openings in the top of the chase. The 40 watt bulbs are turned off and on as needed to regulate the temperatures at the top and bottom of the incubator, while the major heat dependence is on the 100 watt bulbs.

G2 - Goose Incubator Showing Glow Side With Bulbs Off At The Top Fans And Sheet metal blocks At The Bottom Plus Hatching Baskets

Note that there is a golden glow at the lower left and the upper right of the middle support in G1. The glow is produced by light bulbs which are turned on inside the chase and are in holes which are not blocked by sheet metal. The openings on the opposite side of each glow are blocked with sheet metal immediately in front of the bulbs as can be seen in G2 at the bottom of the right side. Air circulates from the top left down to bottom left, through the chase to bottom right, returns to top right, and through the chase to the top left . To make this action take place, fans are placed in the first and fourth openings on the opposite side of the glow with the two middle openings blocked. Literally they are mounted on the top left and bottom right of the chase. The fans are pulling air from the glow side through to the blocked side of the chase.

G3 - Goose Incubator Showing Thermometers Observation Lights For Thermostats

The thermostat system is a GQF electronic (#3258) thermostat backed up by a wafer thermostat. Both placed directly in front of one of the upper fans as can be seen in G1 and G3. The fans are Radio Shack 4 inch fans. When the bottom fan motors needed replacing recently they were replaced with Gemline EM670 fans, but the Radio Shack fan casings were retained to protect the fan blades. The thermometers are Radio Shack indoor/outdoor thermometers with probes. Note that the thermometers are mounted on top of the incubator and the probes are inserted through a hole into the incubator as shown in G3. Two thermometers monitor each side with a probe on the highest and lowest shelf on each side. This thermometer arrangement allows for monitoring of temperature without opening the doors. A small fan not show in any of the photographs is placed below a hole in the chase that was formerly a refrigeration moisture drain. This fan constantly pulls fresh air into the chase which serves as the heating chamber and provides the needed fresh air, while allowing the air to be heated before being distributed into the incubator proper. A Radio Shack thermometer/humidity gauge hangs on the back wall of the left side. Humidity is controlled by placing a plastic pan full of water on the floor of the right side of the incubator.

This incubator is designed for the goose eggs to lie flat on the wire shelves. The eggs are turned 180 degrees three to four times daily. It has been our experience that goose eggs hatch better when placed on the side rather than the end. This incubator is constructed with all of the wiring rising through the chase. When the incubator is in use the fans are always on and the light bulbs are turned on by the thermostats when heat is need to keep the temperature at the desired level. The bulbs are 130 volt bulbs purchased at an electrical supply store. These bulbs give much better service than the normal 120 volt bulbs available at most retail outlets.

Wiring Of All Three Incubators Unless you have experience doing electrical wiring it is certainly best to call on someone who has the experience. If you choose to proceed on your own, do so at your own risk. I use a good grade of 16/3 (number 16 wire with a ground wire) to go from the wall socket to the incubator. Inside the incubator I take the plastic jacket off to make it possible to work with the black, white, and green wires. Be sure to not cut the outside coating on the black, white, and green wires except where you are making connections.

Wiring Scheme For All Three Incubators

The green wire is the ground wire and I like to have one since the incubators are nearly all metal, thus the green wire is bolted to the metal cabinet. The black (main black) wire must lead to all of the fans and to the thermostats. Each fan must be wired individually to the black wire, then connected to the white (main white) wire. The electronic thermostat is connected to the main black wire along with the fans. Except that with my wiring scheme the white wire of the electronic thermostat connects to the main black wire. The black wire of the thermostat now connects to the main white wire. Please note these black/white combinations are a peculiarity of this thermostat and my use of it, although it is an option detailed in the wiring instructions which come with the thermostat. The wafer thermostat is connected to the electronic thermostat by the blue wire. The blue wire attaches to the black wire to which each light must be individually attached. The white wires from the lights must be attached to the main white wire. If I want a light on the outside to let me know what is going on inside the incubator, I can mount a light on the outside of the incubator with its black wire joinng the black wire for the other light bulbs and its white wire joining their white wires. To set the temperature on the thermostats I fill the incubator close to the thermometer probes with burned out light bulbs. I set the wafer thermostat first to 102 degrees Fahrenheit. It will be my backup. Finally I set the electronic thermostat at 99.7 degrees Fahrenheit. If the electronic should fail the wafer will keep the eggs from being heated to the point of ruin.

Circulation of the air and having the thermostat placed directly in the major flow of air are the most important aspects of constructing any incubator.