Sabtu, 27 Desember 2008

all about duck

Kamis, 25 Desember 2008

The layer duck







The difference between duck breast and succulent 'Magret' goes beyond definition. Magret refers to the breasts of ducks that have been fed and raised to produce foie gras. The result? A generously large, tender and leaner meat than regular duck. You'll find that this fresh Magret is reminiscent of a red meat than a blander poultry meat. Made to be prepared tenderly, flash-frozen to preserve the integrity of the flavor and give you the most authentically delicious flavor.INGREDIENTS: Duck breast, salt, water, sugar, spices, natural flavoring sodium erythorbate, sodium nitrite.









Kamis, 04 Desember 2008

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Duck Nutrition


William F. Dean, Ph.D.


Regardless of how ducks obtain their food, whether it be by scavenging, or consuming a complete ration, the food consumed must contain all the nutrients, in an available form, that are needed for maintenance, growth and reproduction. Feeding practices will depend in part on the number of ducks raised. If only a few ducks are kept by a household, and they have access to areas where they can forage, they may be able to survive, grow and lay eggs by consuming available food such as green plants, insects, snails, frogs, and table scraps. Under such conditions, ducks will likely grow very slowly and produce a small number of eggs. Herded ducks are an exception, but they require access to large areas where food is available and the care of a herdsman. If keepers of small home flocks want better growth and more eggs they will have to provide supplemental feed. At a minimum they will have to feed some grain. As the size of a home flock increases, it becomes more likely that the flock will not be able to get enough food by foraging and supplemental feeding will become necessary. If more than a few ducks are to be kept, or if increased performance is desired, there are a number of choices of feeding practices: (1) If available and affordable, purchase nutritionally complete commercially prepared duck feeds. If duck rations are not available, and chicken feeds are, they will serve as a satisfactory substitute. (2) If poultry feed concentrates, which when fed with grain constitute a nutritionally complete diet, are available at a reasonable price, this may be a good option. The grain can sometimes be purchased from local farmers at a favorable price. (3) For those with sufficient knowledge of nutrition and feed formulation, complete duck rations may be mixed on the farm. This approach is dependent upon the availability of feed ingredients and vitamin and mineral premixes at affordable prices. Small batches can be mixed by turning the feed on a clean floor with a shovel.

Nutrient requirements of ducks
Ducks require the same nutrients as chickens, but in slightly different amounts, and particularly in terms of the ratio of each nutrient to the energy concentration of the diet.

Protein
Ducks, like other poultry, do not actually require "protein" but the individual amino acids contained in dietary proteins. The proteins in the diet are broken down during digestion to amino acids which are absorbed and used by the duck to make its own body proteins, such as those in muscle and feathers. Certain of these amino acids must be supplied in the diet because the duck cannot make them from other sources. These are called essential amino acids. When formulating feeds for ducks, primary attention is paid to meeting the ducks essential amino acid requirements. Protein levels that meet the ducks amino acid requirements may vary slightly, depending upon the amino acid content of the ingredients used in each formulation.

Feed quality
One of the most common causes of poor feed quality is failure to dry grains and other feedstuffs properly before storage. If grains that are too high in moisture are stored, without turning or aeration, the grain will heat up and mold and some of its nutritive value will be destroyed. As explained elsewhere, some molds may produce toxins that are particularly harmful to ducks. Make sure that the grains and other foodstuffs used in duck feeds were properly dried and are free of molds and other contamination. If table scraps, bakery waste, wet mash or other feeds high in moisture are fed, feed only what ducks will clean up in a day. If such feed remains in troughs longer, it will likely become moldy. Feedstuffs that are to be stored for very long should contain no more than 10-12% moisture.

Water
Plenty of clean drinking water should be available to ducks at least 8-12 hours per day. In some management systems it is advantageous to shut off feed and water at night to help maintain litter inside buildings in a dry condition. This applies to breeder ducks or market ducks over 3 weeks of age. If done properly, this practice is not harmful and has no effect on performance during periods of moderate temperatures. During periods when temperatures are above 90ºF, drinking water should be available in the evening until the temperature has dropped below 80°F, or else made available all night. Ducks do not require water for swimming in order to grow and reproduce normally. However, providing some water for wading or swimming can be beneficial, especially in hot climates. Ducks can expel excess heat through their bill and feet when allowed contact with water that is appreciably below their body temperature (107°F, 41.7°C). Water temperatures of 50-70°F (10-21°C) are ideal for ducks.





































































Hatching Duck Eggs

Much of the information available on incubating and hatching chicken eggs can be applied to ducks, as long as the important differences between these two species are taken into account. Since duck eggs are larger than chicken eggs, setting trays must be designed to accommodate their larger size. Eggs from common ducks like Pekins require 28 days to hatch. Eggs from Muscovy ducks hatch in about 35 days after setting. When larger numbers of duck eggs are to be hatched, large commercial incubators (setters) and hatchers are normally used. Pekin duck eggs are kept in a setter for 25 days and then transferred on the 25th day to a hatcher where they remain until they hatch on the 28th day. Eggs are automatically turned while in the setter (usually hourly). It is not necessary to turn eggs in the hatcher. Basic procedures and conditions for hatching duck eggs are as follows.




1. If the incubator is not already in operation, start the incubator and allow the temperature and humidity to stabilize a day or two before setting eggs. Set the temperature at 37.5°C (99.5°F) and relative humidity at 55% (84.5°F on wet bulb thermometer). Set ventilation as recommended by the incubator manufacturer. Eggs must be turned, either automatically or by hand, a minimum of 4 times a day. Most automatic turning devices are set to change the position of the eggs hourly.

2. Select eggs to be set by carefully inspecting and candling them at the time they are put in setting trays. Do not set eggs that are cracked, double yolked, misshapen, oversized, undersized or dirty. For best results, set eggs within 1-3 days from the time they were laid. There is an average loss of about 3% hatchability for eggs stored 7 days before setting, and about 10% loss for those stored 14 days. Always set eggs with the small end down, except in the case of small incubators that have no trays. If eggs have been stored in a cooler, take them out of the cooler the night before setting and allow them to warm to room temperature.

3. On the day of setting, put eggs in incubator, close the doors and allow the incubator to reach operating temperature. Check frequently to make sure the incubator is working properly the first day, and continue checking thereafter at least four times a day.

4. At about seven days after setting, candle the eggs and remove any eggs that are infertile (clear) or have dead germ (cloudy).

5. At 25 days after setting (Pekin eggs), the eggs are transferred to hatching trays, and if eggs are hatched in a separate machine, moved to the hatcher. Candle and remove eggs with dead embryos. At the time of transfer, the temperature of the hatcher should be set at 37.2°C (99°F) and the humidity set at 65% (88°F wet bulb). As the hatch progresses, and eggs begin to pip, increase the humidity to 80% (93°F wet bulb), and increase ventilation openings by about 50%. As the hatch nears completion gradually lower the temperature and humidity so that by the end of the hatch the temperature is at 36.1°C (97°F), and the humidity is at 70% (90°F wet bulb). Vents should be opened to their maximum setting by the end of the hatch. Remove ducklings from the hatcher when 90-95% of them are dry.

Proper Water Loss During Incubation
As the duckling develops inside the egg there is a loss of water from the egg and an increase in the size of the air cell. If the duckling is developing normally, the air cell should occupy about one-third of the space inside the egg at 25 days of incubation (common ducks). Weight loss can also be used as a guide. Common duck eggs should lose about 14% of their weight at time of setting by 25 days.

Natural Incubation.
Duck eggs may be hatched naturally by placing them under a broody duck or even a broody chicken hen. Muscovy ducks are very good setters, capable of hatching 12-15 duck eggs. The nest box should be located in a clean dry shelter, bedded with suitable litter. Feed and water should be available for the broody duck and for the ducklings when they hatch.

Egg Storage
If eggs are stored for a while before they are set, they should be stored at a temperature and humidity level that will minimize deterioration of the egg. For a small number of eggs, storage in a cellar may suffice. Whenever possible, store eggs at about 55°F (13°C) and 75% of relative humidity. Store eggs small end down.


Khaki Campbell


The Khaki Campbell was developed in England during the early 1900's by Adele Campbell. It was admitted to the American Standard in 1941. Though originally a cross of Indian Runner, Mallard, and Rouen, Campbells exceed all of these and most chicken breeds in egg production, with some strains averaging 300 eggs per year. They do not require special care or artificial lighting to produce a large number of eggs, which are white and weight about 2.5 ounces (not much larger than a Leghorn egg). Thought not usually raised for meat, Khakis make high quality, lean roasters of 3-4 pounds; they average 4-5 pounds as adults. Campbells are extremely hardy, are excellent foragers, and are at home on land as well as in water. They eat large quantities of slugs, snails, insects, algae, and mosquitos from ponds, but do not require swimming water to stay healthy. The ducks are mainly khaki colored and the drakes have greenish-bronze heads with brown-bronze tails, backs, and necks. They have green bills.

Status: Minor. Though still not common, the Khaki Campbell is thought to be growing in popularity as an egg-layer and backyard duck. Exhibition Khakis do not have the same characteristics as production types.

Reference:

    The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, Box 477, Pittsboro, N.C. 27312
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